Correct rotation a video by Ahmad Syahrin on Flickr.
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Monday, May 16, 2011
Monday, February 14, 2011
DIY - Replace stock rear speakers for Proton Gen2 (no drill method)
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| New rear speaker |
Date 19/9/2010
Tool:
- Philips Screwdriver - 1 unit
- Flat screwdriver - 1 unit
- Multimeter - 1 unit
- Mini hacksaw - 1 unit
- Flat file - 1 unit
- Silicone - 1 tube
- New speaker (6")- 2 units
- Slide connector big - 2 units (size may differ for different brand of speaker. Mine use 6.35mm)
- Slide connector small- 2 units (size may differ for different brand of speaker. Mine use 2.8mm)
- Shrink tubing
Steps:
1. Remove the trunk board and flip down both the rear seats.
2. Remove the speaker cover's screws. 3 at the back and 2 at the front. Remove the cover.
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| Remove speaker cover |
3. Remove the speaker bracket's screw.
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| Stock speaker |
4. Lift the speaker a bit and remove the wiring connector from below.
5. Take out the speaker from its location.You have to lift it up and pull to take it out.
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| After remove the stock speaker |
6. Note the wiring colour coding. Yellow/blue is for rear left speaker positive (+). Yellow/red is for rear left speaker negative (-).
7. Cut the negative (-) terminal. (if you not sure, its with the weird connection type).
8. Strip away part of the rubber insulation at the end of the wire. Using a stripping tool, place the end of the wire (about 0.5 cm) into the hole, clamp down on it, then pull the insulation away.
9. Slide the wire into the crimp connector. If the conductor is multi-strand, twist it so that the wire is tightly wound. This way, individual strands won't get stuck as you insert the wire into the crimp connector.
10. Place the crimp connector into the crimping tool. Squeeze the crimping tool. The connector will not move if you pull it slightly. It is a good practice to cover the connector with a shrink tubing. It will protect it from the elements and some additional strength.
11. It is optional to replace the positive (+) terminal connector. In my case my new speaker use the same type of connector as the stock connector.
12. You can try to attach your new speaker and test the connection. If no sound come out, check your crimping.
13. Lets move on to the speaker bracket modification. Cut all the speaker legs. Six leg to ampute. Cut the paper cone and remove the magnet.
14. Overturn the bracket. File the notches area. Your speaker will not sit flush on the bracket it you do not file it to make it level.
15. Apply generous amount of silicone on the under side of your new speaker. I use a clear type silicone. You can find it at any hardware store.
16. Attach the new speaker to the plastic speaker bracket. Leave the silicone to dry for at least 2 hours.
17. After the silicone cured, install the speaker bracket in its place.
18. Connect positive (+) and negative (-) wiring to the speaker.
19. Next is speaker cover modification. During my reinstallation of the speaker cover, i found out that the cover have a cilindrical sound passage behind the plastic grill. When I tried to put the speaker cover, it clash with the new speaker height. So i trim it down.
20.Install the speaker cover. Screw back all the holding screw.
21. Repeat on the right side rear speaker.
Wiring Colour Reference :
Yellow/blue= rear left speaker positive(+).
Yellow/red = rear left speaker negative (-).
Blue/yellow = rear right speaker positive (+).
Blue/green= rear right speaker negative (-).
Project summary:
1. These steps are valuable if you do not have an electric drill like me.
2. If you have an electric drill, you do not need to modify the old speaker to become your new speaker bracket. You need to drill 2 additional hole on the mounting base in step 5 above. Usually the new speaker come with the hole dimension on its back. Use this to mark the hole location before you start drilling.
3. I found that, with the new speakers, the music i played sound much better.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Front Low Beam Headlight Bulb Replacement
Date 18/7/2010
Work: Front Low Beam Headlight Bulb Replacement
Tool:
1.Multimeter - 1 unit (not compulsory)
2.Replacement bulb- as required.
Duration: 15-20 minute
Procedure
1. Open up the front hood of your car.
2. Reach your hand to the back of the head light.
3. The low beam head light is at the lower part.
4. Twist the bulb socket counter clock wise to release it.
5. Take out the bulb socket from its slot.
6. Pull the burned bulb from the socket.
7. Install the new bulb to the socket and put back the socket in to the slot.
8. Twist the socket clock wise to lock into its place.
9. Turn on the car light to test.
10. Finish
DIY- Proton Gen 2 Rear Light Bulb Replacement
Date 18/7/2010
Work: Change Rear Light Bulbs
Tool:
1. Philips Screwdriver - 1 unit
2.Multimeter - 1 unit
3. Replacement bulb - as required
Steps:
1. Open up your car boot.
2. Remove the 2 screw at the rear light using philips screw driver
3. Remove the nut inside the car boot by hand.
4. Pull gently the light towards you. Note the locking snub on the right.
5. Remove the bulb socket from its slot by twisting it counter clock wise
6. Replace the burned bulb with a new one.
Note you can check the continuity of the bulb terminal to ensure the bulb is faulty. No continuity means the filament is broken.
The replacement can be found at any auto accessory or spare part shop on the cheap. Bring along the defective bulb and show them if you not sure what to get.
7. Put back the bulb socket into the slot and lock it by twist it clock wise.
Wiring Colour Code:
Black - Common (ground)
Red/Blue- Reverse indicator
Green/Black - Signal indicator
Green/White - Red light
Green - Brake light indicator
Note: 12Vdc will be supply through this connection if respecting indicator is activated.
Socket connection position
Work: Change Rear Light Bulbs
Tool:
1. Philips Screwdriver - 1 unit
2.Multimeter - 1 unit
3. Replacement bulb - as required
Steps:
1. Open up your car boot.
2. Remove the 2 screw at the rear light using philips screw driver
3. Remove the nut inside the car boot by hand.
4. Pull gently the light towards you. Note the locking snub on the right.
5. Remove the bulb socket from its slot by twisting it counter clock wise
6. Replace the burned bulb with a new one.
Note you can check the continuity of the bulb terminal to ensure the bulb is faulty. No continuity means the filament is broken.
The replacement can be found at any auto accessory or spare part shop on the cheap. Bring along the defective bulb and show them if you not sure what to get.
7. Put back the bulb socket into the slot and lock it by twist it clock wise.
Additional information if you need to trouble shoot:
Wiring Colour Code:
Black - Common (ground)
Red/Blue- Reverse indicator
Green/Black - Signal indicator
Green/White - Red light
Green - Brake light indicator
Note: 12Vdc will be supply through this connection if respecting indicator is activated.
Socket connection position
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Change Tyre & Alignment Service
Date:8/7/2010
Items Replaced (Brand):
Tyre 195/60/R15 (Falken ZIEX ZE-912)-4 units Price: RM160.00 each.
(Price including balancing).
Rubber Valve :Price RM4.00 each.
Tyre Alignment-4 units Price: RM20.00.
Tyre Camber setting-4 units Price: RM50.00.
Reason:
1. Previous tires are 195/55/R15. For new one I get the 195/60/R15. From side view, it is thicker. With this choice I can get a much more comfortable ride.
2. I notice an additional resistance while cornering. I guess steering response is compromise on comfort.
3. Noticeably quieter from previous 2 years old tires.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Periodic Engine Oil Change
Date: 7/7/2010
Item Installed (Brand):
Engine Oil (Shell HX-7 Semi Synthetic)-RM99.00
Oil Filter (Generic)-RM18.00
Labour-RM10.00
Total: RM127.00
Item Installed (Brand):
Engine Oil (Shell HX-7 Semi Synthetic)-RM99.00
Oil Filter (Generic)-RM18.00
Labour-RM10.00
Total: RM127.00
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Replace Power Steering Oil
Date: 24/6/2010
Item Replaced (Brand):
Power Steering Oil (generic brand)
Price : RM12.00(DIY)
Item Replaced (Brand):
Power Steering Oil (generic brand)
Price : RM12.00(DIY)
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